We were lucky, no rain.
But a fog appeared. Jani with help of GPS led us to Babin ridge – the last control point and then we descended all the way under the fog. That walk at times looked like the turning circle. Under the fog we already could saw the Ohridsko Ezero in the distance. I walked though Karaorman and came to the village Crvena Voda. From there a van took us and we arrived in Ohrid. Jani’s GPS showed 213 km passed from Ljuboten, of which, if you subtract those twenty km from Mavrovo to Galičnik, you get around 180-190 km walking.
The Transversale is a long Trail founded in 1974. Until 2015 only
2 non (former) yugoslavians walked this trail.
(your groupleader is 1 of them)
10/12 dayse trekking over Mountaintops
The first 5 days we walk over the mountain ridges between Macedonia and Kosovo
Later through the NP-Mavrovo to Ohrid (on the lake)
23 june till 5 july 2017
The whole trip you will walk with bagpack (+tent)
€ 785,-- pp (excl. Flight)
Englisch speaking groupsleader
impression Transversal 2014
By MiniVan from Skopje to Staro Selo and from there to the mountainhut under Ljuboten.
Introducing the team, a little logistics for tomorrow and sleeping.
Sleeping doesn’t make memories. Early in the morning we head towards Ljuboten - checkpoint 1 of the tour. Under the rock Kozja we come out in the saddle. Part of the group is climbing to the top, and the other part is resting. We can already feel in this section that backpacks are too heavy. The first 5 days of the tour lead us through Shar Planina mostly on the ridge, and below it. The average height is around 2200m. In this area we have no contact with civilization, so we have to carry all the food with us, as well as tents, sleeping bags and mats, and all of the clothes that we need during the tour. The average weight of backpack is 25 kg. All of them are full with food.
After Ljuboten we pass by Livadicko ezero and come to Piribeg - second checkpoint. We continue towards Dobroshki ezera, where we spend the first night. After 20 km of terrain with constant ups, pretty tired, we set up the first camp at height of about 2300 m.
It was announced that this section will be more difficult than the previous ones. And it was. 30 km along the ridge of Shara, through Bistrica (checkpoint 3) and Crn Vrv, under Kobilica to Karanikolichko Ezero.
We walked the whole day with only few breaks along the way, just to eat and drink. Just before the nightfall we set up the camp and as we were tired we fall asleep.
This section is more relaxing from the previous ones. We have opportunity to enjoy the surroundings, to admire the Leshnicë seen from a distance as a whole, to refresh at the lake Skakala, to feel the smell of all teas, which are on the way, to make "powdered juice" with water from mountain sources of Pena. The spirit of the team could already be felt. The Nature reached every one of us.
We set up the camp 3 near Dzhinibeg, at the sources of Pena. There is enough time to go to Titov Vrv (control point 4), but no one wanted to. All of us decided to rest at this lovely location during the afternoon. It takes about 4 hours to reach Titov Vrv and come back. But it is better to stay here.
Culinary skills of the most of the group dominate at the meadow. For the real gourmands there is no height limit. Pots gurgles, appetite is on satisfactory level. Sunset in color. Laughing in camp. It is nice.
If anyone had doubts about the cancellation of the tour after the second day, now there are no such thoughts. Blisters are wrapped, shoulders already are used to the weight, backpacks are lighter - half of the food is already eaten. We go further.
We walk by Trpeznica. We see Bogovinsko Ezero from a distance. We cross through the Shutman field under Ruddock and Vratsa. We also walked through Gorno Lukovo Pole. Through Rasangul we come up to the mild terrain. We could see Lera (control point 5), where we set up the camp.
The size of the Shara tops that dominated the horizon during the past days now is replaced with tame horizons. We go down to Mavrovo, in the area where Shara is merging with Bistra, when, for the first time, we met other people. The man and the woman that we met were surprised when we told them "dobar den". They expected that we are foreigners. And the second surprise was when I told them that we walked from Ljuboten.
Until that point we had walked over 110 km.
- Don’t you have better things to do? - the woman asked.
We didn’t. We left the everyday routines in Skopje and we started this tour.
Zoki gave the wild mushrooms, collected on our way to Mavrovo, to one of the Mavrovo’s restaurants to be prepared (two full bags) and while it has been prepared part of the group went for a swim in the lake. After more than 100 km passed, man enjoys more pleasures like this. Fed, clean, we got into the van and go to Galichnik.
The tents set up, we all went to the center of the village, the Netherlands - Argentina semifinal, appetizers, beer... The waitress felt embarrassed because of the big tip, while our souls opened... We just heated the atmosphere for the following wedding that weekend. I already realized earlier that climbers are people who enjoy life more and have a more pronounced sense of beautiful and valuable.
Few of us climbed Medenica this morning – (control point 6). Then we head to Lazaropole. We pass by Selce. In Tresonche we were unselfishly given coffee and brandy by some nice people, all 16 of us.
They told us that it will take us one to three hours to walk from there to Lazaropole, "depending on how much you will pick strawberries."
And it is like hidden plantation near the road. And the strawberries were just ready for eating. In Lazaropole we saw that it is about to rain so the locals accommodated us in one of the local houses.
One of the members of the team ended the tour in Lazaropole. The main vocal of the group stayed here, because of blisters and sent us away with a song. The locals were pleasantly surprised by the energy that we brought. We continued. We lost a little time until we found the path that was in the meantime covered with grass – during the past twenty years when it was not passed. It started to rain when we came to Gari. We sat in the motel there and we waited for the rain to stop.
Then along the river Garska we came out to the sheepfolds of Stogovo. We set up the camp and we changed into dry clothes. We had been walking all day through wet meadows.
Journey is over.
Beer for toast. Congratulations, photography. Each of us with their own impressions. All of us with eyes full of delight. Personal achievement in overcoming limits. Desire for new challenges and destinations.
This tour consists of two different parts. The first area of Shara is more intense, isolated from civilization and at bigger heights. The real challenge for real climbers. The second part from Bistra and further is nicer for walking and on the way there are more places where you can rest and sleep. The diversity and beauty of the terrain makes this tour a delight for passage. Of particular importance in the passage of this transversal is a good knowledge of the terrain - especially of water sources that are inconsistent. So you should have an experienced leader to lead the group, otherwise problems that might arise can go to extremes.